Geometry of the GM front suspension - almost a good design The GM front IFS suspension design on these models lacks in certain areas that limits the suspension travel of the front of a non-lifted vehicle. The first problem is the front shocks are too short, bottoming out at full extension before the upper control arms ever touch the droop travel bump-stops. This is extremely hard on the shocks, and premature failure of the shocks is unavoidable. The second problem is that GM upper control arm hits the droop stop on the frame before you ever reach the maximum potential of the travel of the front suspension. Even on 4wd models, the front CV axles have more travel potential than GM provides you from the factory. We believe this is a design flaw on the 8-lug models. Cheaper leveling kits, don’t waste your money! These GM models come with a hefty rake to them, lower in the front by at least 2”, undesirable by many owners. Some owners would just like a small amount of lift in the front to be able to run a slightly larger tire. There are a number of companies out there selling a leveling kit that consists of new torsion bar adjuster keys, and claim that they will not affect the ride of the vehicle. This is a false claim. It is a fallacy that cranking the torsion bars up on a vehicle stiffens the ride. This just is not true, but cranking the torsion bars can affect other areas of the suspension system that will give a harsh ride. Just cranking the torsion bars, or adding the new adjusters preloads the suspension more to raise the height of the front of the vehicle. The problem is that the shocks and upper control arms bottom out to soon, giving the harsh ride. By cranking the torsion bars, you are not changing the spring rate of the torsion bars. There are also companies selling leveling kits that consist of the new torsion bar adjuster keys, and slightly longer front shocks. While this kit will ride better than the previously stated kit, you only gain a fraction of an inch of travel, because even though the shock is not bottoming out any more, the factory upper control arm is still bottoming out on the bump-stop way too soon, again giving a harsh ride. In fact, the torsion bar adjuster keys are not even needed in most cases, because the factory adjusters could have been turned up all the way to achieve the same ride height. Just purchasing the longer shocks would be a better investment than purchasing the new torsion bar adjusters.